vibra artist deluxe......how much?.?

[burnsbonkers]

http://www.auctionatrium.com/index.php? ... 3816&row=7

Whaaaat!?
Someone got a bargain in my opinion!.
Lucky b@%$*&%!.

[Graylion]

Yes - a very cheap one considering its rarity. That's about the price I have seen standard Vibra Artistes normally go for. It's definitly a project though, but luckily the gold hardware (ANY gold hardware) isn't too difficult to restore. I have mentioned home elctroplating elsewhere, although the thread had no response. Brush electroplating is the way to go, after polishing off the original, very thin plate. The same goes for all the bridge and trem pieces. I have the equipment to do nickel, copper, zinc and 'replica-chrome' plating at home in connection with my old bikes restoration. I'll either go for nickel or satin 'chrome' when I dismantle my Artiste for a "tidy up". Anything is better than a crappy, rusty steel bridge! The paintwork on mine is still very good so it's the brightwork that lets it down.
Cheers, Lionel

[mgeek]

How does the electro plating work then?

I've got a Fenton Weill bass that has a chromed bridge (matching, but from another bass), but the rest of the hardware is gold. Is it easy to get a match, or would there be a difference in shades?

[Graylion]

Hi mcgeek ("OK boss" !) First you'd have to remove the chrome - you can't electro-plate on top of chrome. This is the firm I use, mainly because they are the cheapest. http://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/Gold-an ... g-Kits.php . You might find some anodes cheaper elsewhere though if you're going for bigger parts like me. I used fleabay for additional nickel anodes. They have a video of brush plating on the site. See "Plating Videos". I have a sample of their "replica-chrome" and it looks as good as real chrome, but can be done at home without a massive electricity supply and lethal chemicals! Well, some are slightly lethal! . Small parts can be done with a 5 amp battery charger as a power supply.

As it happens I'm not planning to go for brush plating yet as I'm mainly using the kits for zinc, nickel, copper and replica-chrome plating - plus chemical and electrolytic cleaning of classic motorbike parts. I will be re-plating some of my Burns Artiste parts as well - one day! And anything else that stands still long enough I expect!
Cheers, Lionel

[mgeek]

And anything else that stands still long enough I expect!
Cheers, Lionel

Thanks for the lowdown, Lionel

Yep- Can totally see how it could become addictive

I'm still umming and aahing a bit. I've never seen a F/W bass with ALL gold hardware...they mostly seem to have gold tuners, mine has gold pickups, but I've not seen a gold bridge yet, so weighing up the authenticity of the plan still ...

[Graylion]

The trouble with gold plate on guitars is that it's usually whisper thin and rubs off with normal wear fairly quickly. It's just as well that chrome doesn't do that! OK, so gold is pretty expensive but the amount used is often measured in only fractions of a gram. Proper electroplating with a specified thickness would be the most durable. I wouldn't want less than 5 microns, but more is better - like gold-plated watches which get plenty of wear. I have an old one with 20 microns on the case. It wouldn't be too difficult to work out how much gold you would actually use.

Brush-plating is potentially thin, but you can just keep going and make it thicker. The same as tank plating - leave it in longer for a thicker layer.
Cheers, Lionel