Vintage style synchronized tremolo

[dagon1]

Points taken guys.
I did think of the plumbers' tape too and will give that a go.
The "W" shape spring formation sounds neat and makes sense too which should "even out" the tension distribution. Thanks for the attention given to my tremolo arm that suffers from a stiffy. I'm really glad to have joined this group where everyone has shared their wealth of knowledge with fun and good doses of humour!

[RUSSET]

Thanks guys, for your valuable comments and advice. I found 5 springs under the cover. I've followed your advice (and Fender web site's) to loosen the claw screws, kept middle 4 screws looser on the bridge while keeping the end 2 slightly tighter. The action is "springier" now. I'll play for a while before considering taking out the middle spring. Another additional issue is the screw on tremolo arm which is "clunk-loose" when using. One more turn and it becomes too tight. (just cant find a happy medium) I find the push in arms better to use - like the ones on my '83 Strat Elite and Godin xtSA.

The main bad thing on these 'Classic Vibe' Squiers is the naff thin Trem block which is made from a soft metal alloy, so the Trem arm always works loose. Mine became loose after a couple of week's use, so I acquired a full thickness Steel one, & it has been fine ever since. I use my 'Biffy' Strat all the time now, as it plays so well, & it's Fiesta Red too, so it looks the part for Shads tunes. Mine came with three trem springs, by the way.

Tony.

[Amanda]

Apparently fitting the trem arm spring in Diecast alloy blocks
can cause the arm to jam in the thread.

Also the cheaper thin blocks sometimes have the trem arm
hole drilled straight through!

Amanda

[RUSSET]

Apparently fitting the trem arm spring in Diecast alloy blocks
can cause the arm to jam in the thread.

Also the cheaper thin blocks sometimes have the trem arm
hole drilled straight through!

Amanda

Indeed they do, Amanda. In my original cheapo alloy thin block, in the 'Biffy', has the 'straight thru to the bottom' trem arm hole, so a mini spring would just drop straight through. That's the one big fault with the current Far East Squiers. Shame really because the rest of the guitar is really good value for what you pay. It is a proper Strat with proper vintage tone, alnico pickups & a really good quality finish. Just change the block & give it a good set-up & you're away.

Tony.

[dagon1]

Thanks Tony,
On my Squire which has a 5 spring tremolo, I suppose the hardware will be different to your model. Should it be a straight forward swap or my guitar will need any modification on the woodwork? Did you mean changing the whole block/assembly bridge and all? Is there a web site where you got your parts?
BTW I had a look at your Biffy on the Squire site and read the interesting info that goes with it. Looks like you have the maple neck model which should get tones (and look) closer to Shadows/Marvin. It looks gorgeous. Pity the model is Europe exclusive.

[Bill Bowley]

I am always 'amused' when I listen to the process of taking out two springs and then tightening up the 'claw' (increasing the force of the remaining springs) to compensate for removing them - because that is what is happening, basic physics will tell you that if nothing else. A tension coil spring applies force at an increasing, not constant rate, and given that the resisting force applied by a given set of guitar strings will remain the same when 'in tune', the total force that the springs apply to the tremolo block when it is 'in balance' will be the same regardless of how many springs you have fitted. Where the difference comes is in the rate at which the springs apply a resistance to the movement - and it it here that the number of springs has some effect. Five springs will apply a resistance at a faster rate (you will notice it sooner) than three springs, that is the only difference. (Oh yes, the guitar will weigh slightly more with 5 springs and may have barely noticeable extra 'sustain'). Goes towards the 'feel' of the tremolo arm - somewhere between rock solid and floppy for want of a better description!

Like I said, each to their own preference IMHO - there is no 'right' or wrong way, only what suits you best.

[Bill Bowley]

Thanks Tony,
On my Squire which has a 5 spring tremolo, I suppose the hardware will be different to your model. Should it be a straight forward swap or my guitar will need any modification on the woodwork? Did you mean changing the whole block/assembly bridge and all? Is there a web site where you got your parts?
BTW I had a look at your Biffy on the Squire site and read the interesting info that goes with it. Looks like you have the maple neck model which should get tones et al Shadows/Marvin. Pity the model is Euro exclusive.

Dagon,

Just reading what you said here I get the idea that you are looking at 'upgrading' the Squire -is it that good a guitar? The only Squires I have ever thought to be worth the effort are the early 1980's made in Japan and the few made in USA at one time - compared to genuine Fender (USA-Mex-Japan) and some of the other Japanese 'lawsuit' copies - all the others really don't interest me at all. By the time you finish, you may find that you could have bought a better Strat for the same total outlay - particularly with what is available here in Australia. Just a thought.

[dagon1]

Dagon,

Just reading what you said here I get the idea that you are looking at 'upgrading' the Squire -is it that good a guitar? The only Squires I have ever thought to be worth the effort are the early 1980's made in Japan and the few made in USA at one time - compared to genuine Fender (USA-Mex-Japan) and some of the other Japanese 'lawsuit' copies - all the others really don't interest me at all. By the time you finish, you may find that you could have bought a better Strat for the same total outlay - particularly with what is available here in Australia. Just a thought.

Thanks, I do share the view re: recent Squires are generally cheaper (inferior) copies and only the Jap models came pretty close in giving the Yank models a run for their money when they came out in the 80s. Having said that, and owning an "All American Strat", this classic vibe model is exceptionally good value for money (looks and playability) albeit metal hardware which Tony pointed out earlier. I don't intend to go beserk with the upgrading bit except the guitar already has Tonerider Classic Blues pickups that gives me tones I'm after. Funnily enough the "tremolo craze" came after I went to Shad's concert and contracted the "bug" again to play their music. So I'm really after an essential upgrade of a decent guitar IMHO.

[Bill Bowley]

Reggie,

OK, so you are happy with the basics of this guitar, here's a suggestion. Have a look at Bill Callaham's replacement trem units at http://www.callahamguitars.com/home.htm . If you decide to go down that path (I have in my upgrades) then you can buy the kit complete in Sydney from Wild Horse Guitars in Sydney who are Callaham agents for $235AUD plus postage - they are at
http://www.wildhorseguitars.com.au/webs ... arent=1417 . Otherwise, you can of course buy after market Gotoh, Wilkinson's, Fender etc, etc but my personal preference is for Callaham. Have a look anyway,see what you think.

Toneriders were a good choice IMHO too, by the way, I have a set of Tonerider 'Surfari' for one of my guitars!

[dagon1]

Cheers Mate!
I was actually browsing the same web site earlier after Googling "trem blocks" and they are truly impressive. Especially their design and attention to the materials and workmanship.