Highwood HG contoured saddles

[singtag]

A member on CH&F mentioned these saddles that look like they may make it easier to palm mute. Just wondering if anyone has tried them?
http://Highwood-guitarparts.com

Regards
Tony

[Trojun]

I always grind down the bottom of the screws so they are level with the top of the saddles. Not ground flat tho, they need a domed profile so there is a small contact area on the plate otherwise they can buzz.
I also tilt the saddles on the first and second strings so they have the same curve as the neck, makes palm muting much easier.
Got to admit those Highwood ones look quite neat.

Dave

[Uncle Fiesta]

Yet another solution to a problem that doesn't exist (the guitar world seems awash with them).

All you need to do is shim the neck, then you can raise the action so that the screws don't protrude any more. And it's free.



P.S. Don't tilt the saddles, they're supposed to be parallel to the bridge surface, so the strings stay in the middle of them.

[Stu's Dad]

You can also buy shorter grub screws, in 6, 8 or10mm.

Len

[Trojun]

Not too keen on shimming although i have just shimmed a customers telecaster because there was insuficient adjustment at the bridge (bigsby fitted).
Although its recomended that saddles should be level Ive never had a problem tilting the A and B saddles a small amount to suit the neck contour even on a small radius neck, indeed on a vintage 3 saddle tele bridge you dont have much choice.
I first did it on a strat bridge about 25 years ago, i found it made palm muting much easier and its something ive just got used to.
Nice to see bridge screws sold in various lengths now, protruding screws are my pet hate.

Dave