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Hi
Just wondered if anyone here has fitted a Wilkinson WVP6 replacement trem/block system for this model?
I understand the body depth needs to in the region of 46 mm to accomodate the bridge/ steel block.
As this Squier is Chinese made it may have a thinner body depth? although it is Alder
Certainly fits a Made in Japan Squier 7.5 radius neck and basswood body
ok and ultra reliable as I can vouch for this, over the years having one.
Many thanks if anyone can advise

anniv 63 wrote:Hi
Just wondered if anyone here has fitted a Wilkinson WVP6 replacement trem/block system for this model?
I understand the body depth needs to in the region of 46 mm to accomodate the bridge/ steel block.
As this Squier is Chinese made it may have a thinner body depth? although it is Alder
Certainly fits a Made in Japan Squier 7.5 radius neck and basswood body
ok and ultra reliable as I can vouch for this, over the years having one.
Many thanks if anyone can advise

I've done exactly that and the body depth is fine. I think the block is actually shorter than the original. The difference is in the screw hole spacing. I found this tip on line a few years ago and had no trouble following it:

If you're not worried about drilling two holes, you should be able to fit a Wilkinson WV6SBCR without too much trouble. They have 1 round hole and five slotted holes, if you start at the D/G mounting holes and work outwards the B & A will also fit, and the two e's will be about half a hole out. It's simple enough to plug and re- drill, I've used these on two Squiers now with no problem.

Len

Hi Len
Many thanks for your reply and very helpful information for a starting point on this
planned trem/block change

Regards
Mike

Stu's Dad wrote: … It's simple enough to plug and re- drill ...

True, but it's probably easier to elongate the holes in the bridge plate to line up with the holes that are already there. I've done this a couple of times and it worked fine.

Uncle Fiesta wrote:

Stu's Dad wrote: … It's simple enough to plug and re- drill ...

True, but it's probably easier to elongate the holes in the bridge plate to line up with the holes that are already there. I've done this a couple of times and it worked fine.

It's an alternative Steve, but I wouldn't say it was easier. Wood's easier to work than steel.